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11 / 30 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
Rhone Valley
Vintage Reports

2012 Northern Rhône vintage report

Vignerons had to work a lot harder in the northern Rhône in 2012 than in the south, down, mainly to a very damp spring, with outbreaks of mildew and excessive vigour.

Ralph Garcin of Domaine Paul Jaboulet Ainé describes the vintage thus:

The weather conditions for this vintage in the northern Rhone were quite heterogenous and difficult. We had a really long and cold winter with several days of serious frost. Spring was cool and rainy which made the vineyard management quite tough. The vines were very vigourous as was the disease pressure. It was a real challenge this year to cope with such pressure especially for organically-farmed estates. By the beginning of July, the weather became dry and sunny. Not very hot but sunny. Summer was ok with a short period of drought at the end of August but with no real bad consequences. We started to pick the first white grapes on the 9th of September in Crozes Hermitage and then Hermitage. The harvest lasts more than a month. We finished to pick the reds on the 8th of October at our 400m high parcel of Cornas (Domaine St Pierre).

The crop is quite small. We expect 20% less than last year but we think the quality is better. The whites are very aromatic with a good natural acidity. This year marsanne has performed better than roussanne. Viogniers are great ! Concerning the reds, the early appellations such as Crozes Hermitage are very dark-coloured with a lot of fruit character on the nose. The mouth is pretty soft with a medium-bodied structure. Hermitage and Cornas are very dense and powerful. The wines are full bodied and are certainly denser than 2011. We have very strong expectations for these wines. Cote Rotie and St Joseph are good too but not as dense as the red hermitages. They are more gentle and delicate. They will need a lot ageing to express their finesse.

2012 was not easy at all in the vineyard but was quite manageable in the winery. The fermentations have no problem. The alcohol content is on average 0.5-1% less than the last 3 years. The wines are very well balanced with easy drinking fruit driven Crozes Hermitage and good ageing potential Hermitage ! We are waiting for the malolactics to finish and we are filling the barrels with the new vintage wines. 2012 is on track ! I’ll tell you more in a couple of months.

11 / 27 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
Rhone Valley
Uncategorized
Vintage Reports

2012 Southern Rhône vintage report

After the variable quality experienced in 2011, the Rhône is back on track quality wise in 2012. Yields are down by up to 30% as a result of both the heavy frosts experienced in February and drought in the height of Summer. Overall the fruit has been of a very high quality with good ripeness and decent acidity.

Some rain caused a few vignerons a bit of head scratching during the harvest. Rains were short lived though and were followed by mistral which dried things up quickly. Rains prior to harvest helped balance out Syrah in the southern Rhône and Cornas as they were suffering a little from the heat. The rains helped to plumpen the grapes and prevented them from getting cooked.

Alicante Bouschet leaf in mid November sunlight

Grenache and Mourvèdre performed well across the board in the southern Rhône producing lots of grapes but with a lot less juice than in 2011. Comparisons are being made with 2007.

Michel Gassier of Château de Nages in Costières de Nîmes describes conditions concisely here:

The beginning of spring was wet which was great because winter rains had been scarce and the soil was fully replenished when the warm weather arrived in May. Unlike most of France, we enjoyed a beautiful dry, sunny summer and by end of August, some spots were starting to show water deprivation. A little rain at the beginning of September allowed the ripeness process to conclude its course and harvest started at a normal (a tad late) date.

Overall health of grapes was excellent this vintage, and even spectacular for whites. Sugar levels were moderate (1% less than 2007 or 2010) but the acidity balanced. The wines revealed themselves after long macerations but are showing a beautiful round tannic structure even if aromatically they have yet to tell us everything.

Amy Lillard winemaker and owner of La Gramière experienced similar weather conditions, 30km north west of Chateau de Nages, in Castillon du Gard. Here’s Amy’s personal take on the 2012 vintage which she sees as being good to very good:

The 2012 vintage was characterized by the weather in late 2011 which was very dry. Virtually no rain fell all winter long which put us at a deficit early on. In late January the historically cold temperatures caused some losses of vines, particularly with very old grenache. The spring was humid with frequent light rains which lead to some mildew early on, but there wasn’t significant precipitation to curb the effects of a dry winter. The summer was then hot and dry which lead to small yields. The wines are good to very good, but it won’t be considered a great vintage. Tannins are fairly soft, the wines are fruity and pleasant, but I’ll reserve final judgement for the Spring, once all of the malolactic fermentations are finished and the wines are racked.

The story was different in the northern Rhône. Winter was very cold and windy with lots of frost and spring was wet and the fight against mildew meant lots of hard work in the vines. July and August were nice and hot and the vines ripened well, before picking started in mid September. I’ll post a more detailed account of the 2012 vintage by Ralph Garcin of Domaines Paul Jaboulet Ainé in the next few days.

Here are some other reports on the 2012 Rhône vintage:

Inter Rhone – Rhône Highly Expressive 2012 Vintage : Balance and Harmony
John Livingston Learmonth’s Drink Rhône website – you’ll need to scroll down the page a bit, but it’s worth it as John writes so well and is THE man in the know!
Philippe Cambie – Vision du Millesime 2012 (in French)
Michel Gassier Blog – Initial observations - (also available in French)

 

 

11 / 16 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
Uncategorized

Millévin

Millevin 2012Last night I went along to Millévin in Avignon. Millévin celebrates the new vintage in the Côtes du Rhône and is an opportunity for growers to sell off a portion of their harvest as young wine.

The best know vin-de-primeur is Beaujolais Nouveau, which has been heavily marketed and sold throughout the world for around half a century. If you want to find out more about it here’s a good history of Beaujolais Nouveau

The vignerons of the Côtes du Rhône started bottling wine to sell early in the 1970s. Originally, the poorer quality wine was selected to be vinified fast and to be sold early and then drunk between November and spring of the following year. As in Beaujolais, the primary reason for doing this is to improve cashflow by selling part of their produce soon after harvest. Also, and equally as important it provides a great excuse for a party!

Millévin is all about the party. It’s a celebration of the new vintage and gives the public the first chance to taste it. People get to taste the new wines and also have an opportunity to taste producers main wines as well. It’s this part that’s key for the producers here in the Rhône. Yes, they get a chance to sell some of their wine soon after it’s produced, but also they get a chance to get their wines in front of the public.

Millévin is great for the public; it allows them to taste the wines of around 30 different producers in the same place and also allows them to meet the people who make the wines. It’s set in a very convivial atmosphere with live music and good food available; last night people were feasting on oysters, charcuterie and cheese.

With all the fun and festivity surrounding Millévin, people get caught up in the atmosphere. All the cellar doors in the region are full of people the weekend following the release of the primeur wine. They’re excited to try the new wine and of course sample some of the more serious stuff. And that of course is what the winemakers want and need.

 

9 / 20 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
Languedoc Roussillon
On the road
Rhone Valley
Tasting
Uncategorized

Tastings in the UK

I’m leaving tomorrow morning to do some tastings in the UK. Looking forward very much to seeing some old friends and hopefully going to be making some new ones too.

New wines

Château de Montfrin – organic producer of wonderful Côtes du Rhône and juicy Costières de Nîmes.

La Gravette de Corconne – high quality co-op making cracking Pic Saint Loup.

Domaine Turner Pageot – wonderful wines by husband and wife team (see picture below) based in Languedoc. Their wines are simply stunning. Languedoc-Roussillon wines in general continue to improve and it’s thrilling to see great new wines coming through every year.

Emmanuel Pageot & Karen Turner

Domaine Cedric Parpette – brilliant Côte Rôtie, very small production, very high quality. Cedric’s creating wines that are making people here in France stand up and take notice.

Domaine Monier Perréol – Jean-Pierre Monier is making Saint Joseph at the highest level. He’s a very open, even some might say, enlightened wine maker and isn’t interested in convention. His wines taste like they should be a lot more expensive than they are. As good value as you can find in the Northern Rhone.

Let me know if you’re interested in buying direct from these or any of the other producers whom I represent.

5 / 23 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
On the road
Tasting
Uncategorized

Tasting open to all at the Whalley Wine Shop

I’m going to be doing a tasting in one of the best wine shops in the North West of England on Saturday the 26th of May. It’s really exciting for me on a couple of levels. Firstly, it’s the first time I’ve done a tasting so near to where I grew up which means I’ll be able to see some old friends, and get an appreciation of what they think of my wines. Secondly, it’s taking place in a shop that’s really going places.

Tom Jones of the Whalley Wine Shop

Tom accepting his award for Drinks Retailer of the Year 2011

Tom Jones is so passionate about wine and he’s transformed that passion into a really successful business. He’s young and dynamic and above all else has a great knowledge of wine and a desire to pass that knowledge onto his loyal customers. He tastes all the wines before they go on the shelves and makes notes about all of them. Daniel, his right hand man is equally as passionate and knows all the wines inside out. It’s a really buzzing shop and if you’re into wine you should definitely check it out.

If you’re about this Saturday and want to stock up on some great Rhone wines that you can’t find anywhere else in the North West come along to the tasting.

When: 2pm-6pm, Saturday 26 May, 2012
Where: The Whalley Wine Shop, 63 King St, Whalley, Lancs, BB7 9SW

Click here for more details on the Whalley Wine Shop blog

 

3 / 1 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
In the restaurant
Looking for wine

Back home in Vallabrègues

My first trip to the UK is over and it’s been a real success. I’ve made lots of new friends and have been really excited about the buzz surrounding my producers wines. Consistently good feedback has validated our wine list and the orders are starting to come in.

Now it’s time to handle a load of paperwork and follow up communications, including reporting back to producers, giving them valuable feedback on their wines. I not only want to help good producers sell their wines but am keen to help them make their wines even more desirable to the end buyer.

I’m going to spend some time finding a couple more wines. This will eventually result in me adding to the list a Pic St Loup (see some pictures from my recent visit on my Facebook page) and a Les Baux de Provence, as well as a Provincial Rose – either a Coteaux Various or a Rosé de Provence. I’m not in a big rush though as finding the right wine is more important to me than bringing my list up to date.

It’s also time to spend some time together as a family – being away from them for 3 weeks is not easy and more importantly it’s not easy for the them, especially after spending 5 months apart whilst getting ourselves established, here in France. It means it’s doubly important for us to have a good time when we are together. We’ve had a relaxing few days together, visiting le Vieux Mas in Beaucaire (great family day out) and we’ve even been to the beach for a picnic! It’s late February and it already feels like Spring is well and truly around the corner. We also went out for lunch with my Mum on Thalie’s birthday. Went to Le Mesclun in Seguret as it has good food at a fair price and the views are spectacular. The wine list is also good with wines from Domaines Cabasse and Alary and Chateau Mont Redon.

Finally, we’re moving house very soon. Sticking with the Rhône theme as we’ll still be on Rue du Rhône, just a few doors down.  The move should be fairly easy as there’ll be no packing cases or any need to use a removal company. We’ll be using a trolley and taking our things down the road tranquillement!

 

2 / 1 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
On the road
Rhone Valley

Bringing unique Rhone wines to the UK

What’s this English/Australian/French (hardly!) guy doing selling Rhone wine here in England?

Well, to cut a long story short, I grew up in the North West of England, met a French/Australian girl and was dragged, kicking and screaming to Sydney. Now we’ve two kids and are settled in France and I have to say it’s great to be nearer my roots.

Paul Sutton whilst working at Ultimo Wine Centre in Sydney

Me during my days at Ultimo Wine Centre in Sydney

I’ve been working in the wine trade for 4 years now, in both sales and marketing. I did the harvest at Font-de-Michelle in Chateauneuf-du-Pape in 2011 and made my first wine in that same year. It’s a Chateauneuf-du-Paul (I know it’s terrible) and it’s not all that good. Loads of time and work and effort but fun all the same. I digress – the reason I’m here is not to sell my own wine, but to sell wines by some of the best vignerons from the Rhone and Languedoc Roussillon.

For the next three weeks I’m in the UK, visiting the great and good of the independant wine trade. It’s no easy job as I’m an unknown quantity here, but what’s making it possible, and is encouraging people to buy from me, is that I’m offering quality wines at a price that means everyone, from the producer to the buyer are able to make a sensible return. Furthermore, the end consumer gets a wine of real quality – something to savour and enjoy… and hopefully buy again!

I know there are a lot of people out there selling good wine at competitive prices. In fact the quality of wine across the board is pretty good really and seldom do you buy a wine that is undrinkable. What is evident however, the more people I visit, are the same wines from shop to shop. Yes, they’re good, consistent and safe bets – but they’re available in other good shops around the country. It’s not a problem for the consumer now, but in time, having high volume (albeit sound quality) wines enjoying more and more market share, choice will be the loser in the end.

If you want something new from the Rhone or Languedoc Roussillon on your list, give me a call, and I’ll come and do a tasting.

1 / 31 / 12
Paul Sutton
Categories
Rhone Valley
Uncategorized

Chateau d’Or et de Gueules

Diane de Puymorin is a very passionate winemaker. She’s very proud of what she’s achieved over the last decade or so in making Chateau d’Or et de Gueules one of the top names in Costieres de Nîmes.

Diane de Puymorin

Diane de Puymorin

Mourvedre, Syrah, Carignan, Grenache Noir and Blanc, Roussanne and Rolle (Vermentino) all do well in this terroir of large rolled stones or galets. The proximity to the Mediterranean help to keep temperatures in check in what is a severely hot area throughout the Summer months. Being close to the Mediterranean also helps to make balanced wines as night time temperatures drop which allows the grapes to retain decent levels of natural acidity.

Diane vinifies all parcels separately which allows her to retain their particular characteristics and their stamp of terroir. Vinification is carried out differently for the various grape varieties. The delicate Carignan grapes are hand harvested in small 60 litre crates (just like the ones used at places like Chateau Palmer or Beaucastel) keeping the grapes intact. They then undergo carbonic maceration (as is the norm in Beaujolais) resulting in a fresh fruity style, that is low in tannin and displays the juicy savoury character of Carignan to a tee. Mouverdre on the other hand is vinified traditional using pigeage which is manually done and involves punching down the cap (the skins and solid matter that floats to the top of the fermentation vessel).

South facing vines at Chateau d'Or et de Gueules

South facing vines at Chateau d'Or et de Gueules

In January, Diane assembles the various cuvees and the ageing process starts proper in either concrete tanks or oak barriques. The choice of ageing vessel depends on the cuvee.

Once the wines have been allowed age (for between one and three years) they are then bottled, boxed and labelled in the domaine, ensuring everything is done perfectly, under the watchful eye of Diane.

Although not classified as organic Chateau d’Or et de Gueules operate with a real respect for the land and are in fact as green as just about anyone out there. They’re carbon neutral and produce their own electricity using a huge bank of solar panels located on the roof of one of their out buildings. They don’t use any pesticides, encourage the growth of grass and other plants between the vines and are always conscious of their role in protecting their special patch of land.

I’m delighted to include Diane’s wines on my list and am looking forward to working with her over the years to come.

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